Beginning Sprouts Newsletter December 2008

Gardening is the last thing on people’s minds right now.  We are too busy getting ready for the holidays – gatherings, family, parties, shopping lists, etc.  Now is a good time to check the house plants.

 

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs – If you potted up some bulbs, such as hyacinths, daffodils or tulips last September for winter forcing, keep an eye on them.  Keep them moist and in the dark until they have established their root systems.  It’s possible that they have already filled the container with roots and top growth has begun.  Set them in a cool room, in indirect light.  After a week or so, move them into a bright light, and watch them bloom.

 

 

House Plants – Sponge off glossy leaved house plants to allow them to breathe.  Plants that have fuzzy, textured, or other non-glossy type leaves should be set in the sink and sprayed gently with room temperature water, until the dust is cleared away.  Allow the foliage to dry completely.

 

Provide your house plants with extra humidity by grouping plants together, or setting on leak proof trays filled with moistened pebbles.

 

 

Odds and ends - Keep the bird feeder filled, especially when there is snow on the ground.

 

Don’t let your hose freeze and burst.  Allow the water inside to drain before coiling it up and put away.

 

Make sure outside faucets are covered and protected from freezing.

 

HAVE A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Beginning Sprouts Newsletter November 2008

Winter is going to be knocking on the door. It’s going to be cold and windy and working in the garden is of no interest to me right now.  At this time, I’m looking forward to receiving catalogs in the mail and looking at all the new flowers. 

 

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs – Make sure that the canes of your climbing roses and other vining plants are fastened to their supports.  The cold winds can cause damage to unprotected plants.  Tie them loosely so that the string or cord is not cutting into them.  Protect your roses by covering them with a cone or covering with mulch. 

 

You can transplant your perennials through the fall and winter, as long at they remain dormant.  Tender bulbs should be dug up and stored in a cool, dark area after first frost.

 

Mulching with straw or bark will help protect your tender plants from the frost.  Place a cloth or dark plastic cover over plants to protect them from the cold.  Remove the coverings when the weather has stabilized.

 

Fruits and veggies – I’m still enjoying my tomatoes from the garden.  I placed the green ones in a paper bag and set them in a cool place and check on them every few days.  I’m getting red tomatoes; this really works.  Cover strawberry plants with two inches deep of hay or straw.

 

House Plants – The house air dries out in the winter.  Mist your plants or place them in a tray with some water to get moisture and humidity to survive.

 

Odds and ends – Be sure to feed the birds and small creatures (I have three rabbits always waiting to be fed on my back patio; they enjoy the carrots I leave them.)

 

Drain your hoses and put them away so they don’t freeze and burst.  Run your mower until it is out of fuel; the gas can turn to varnish and damage the engine.  Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage. 

 

 

 

 

Verbena is one of those garden essentials that bloom from spring to fall with very little fuss.  In frost-free climates it is grown as a perennial, but most grow it as an annual.  If it has any faults at all, it could be accused of working too hard and producing an overwhelming crop of colorful flowers.  Verbena blooms throughout the summer in full sun despite dry, patched soil and inconsistent watering, and can play several roles.  As a mainstay in containers, it sends out numerous stems over the sides of pots, which bring texture to the display.  When used as a bedding plant, it grows together to fill a garden with color or cover the ground below tall, bare-stemmed, “leggy” plants.  They can also be persuaded to interweave with foliage or flowering plants, with no maintenance needed.

 

Verbenas are available with white, pink, blue, purple, red, and two-toned flowers.  The flower heads form as the ends of the stems, with numerous tiny, brightly colored flowers clustered into a tight mound that resembles a clump of snowflakes.  At night, varieties like ‘Silver Anne’ send their sweet perfume roaming.  Through the day, butterflies and hummingbirds court the nectar-rich flowers.

 

Except for occasional visits from aphids, which can be rinsed off or controlled with insecticidal soap, few pests bother care-free verbenas.  For maximum performance, spent flowers should be removed by clipping back older stems, which also encourages the emergence of new branches.  Even when left to their own devices, verbenas keep performing.

 

Verbenas vary in size.  The ground moss verbena and trailing verbena reach 1 foot or less in height and spread from 2 to 5 feet wide.  Verbena rigida usually grows 1 ½ to 2 feet tall, while the Brazilian verbena and native blue verbena can reach 4 to 6 feet tall, but only a foot or two in width. 

 

They require a location that receives full sun throughout the day.  They must have well-drained soil.  They will not tolerate overcrowding with poor air circulation, shade or soil that stays overly moist.

 

Verbenas are best planted in the spring or summer.  Pinch the tips of the branches at planting time to encourage dense branching and a fuller plant.  Newly planted verbenas will need to be kept moist for the first few weeks until the roots have spread into the surrounding soil.  During their blooming period, give them a thorough watering once a week if they do not receive an inch of rain that week.  Avoid overhead watering.  Of bloom slows during the summer, trim the whole plant back by about one fourth of its height and spread, water thoroughly and fertilize lightly.  The plant will return to bloom with two to three weeks.

 

A light application of a complete fertilizer in mid to late spring and after trimming back will revitalize plants.  Plants growing in very sandy, poor soil may need more frequent fertilization.

 

In the fall you can trim back verbenas lightly to give a neater appearance to the garden, but do not cut severely until spring as new growth begins to appear.  Overly severe fall pruning can reduce cold hardiness and plants may not survive a cold winter.  Most verbenas are short-lived, so you should plan on replacing them after two or three years.  Some species can re-seed and naturalize in the garden.

 

 

 

Beginning Sprouts Newsletter October 2008

This is the time of year when Mother Nature uses all of her brilliant colors.  School buses are on the road and there is a bit of cool air in the morning.   It’s time to rake the leaves, put the beds to sleep, and put away garden tools for the year. 

 

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs – Now is a good time to plant those spring flowering bulbs when the soil temp drops below 60 degrees F – tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, irises, and crocus.  Select healthy, disease free bulbs.  Add bulb fertilizer into the planting hole as you prepare the soil.

 

Gladiolas, Dahlias and other tender bulbs should be dug before the ground freezes, and stored in a cool, dark area.  Dahlia and Begonia tubers should be stored in a box of slightly moist peat moss.  Gladiolas can be stored in a paper bag without packing.

 

Be sure that new plantings and perennials which were divided and moved last month are kept watered.  It’s a good time to set out winter pansies and fall mums to keep color in your garden. 

 

A windless, cold, clear night usually means a killing frost – protect plants with cheesecloth or an old bed sheet.  Remove the cover as soon as the danger has passed.  Geraniums, begonias, and other tender plants should be brought indoors or moved to a coldframe before the first frost.  Mulching fall planted perennials will keep the soil warmer longer, allowing root growth to continue, however, the plants do need time to harden off for winter.  Spread a thin layer of mulch after fall planting, and then add a thicker layer once the ground has frozen.  Collect and save seeds of flowers to sow next spring.

 

Fruits and veggies – Harvesting fruits and vegetables is the best part of growing them.  Share the abundance of your tomatoes and squash with friends and neighbors.  This season is for freezing, canning, drying, and storing the fruits of our labor.  Some root crops, such as carrots, onions, and parsnips can be left in the ground in cold climates and dug up as needed.  Apply enough mulch to keep the ground from freezing, and the crop will be kept fresh until it is needed.

 

After you have finished harvesting your summer vegetables, plant a cover crop of cloves, cow peas, soybeans, for the purposed of plowing under next spring.  These nitrogen producing plants will provide good organic matter and food for your garden crops next year, as well as helping to control weeds over the winter.

 

 

Odds and ends – One last application of slug bait will eliminate a lot of slugs and prevent them from reproducing again this fall with fewer slugs next spring.  One last effort at weeding will help to improve the appearance of your garden throughout the winter.  Any weed that can be eliminated from the garden now will possibly prevent weed seeds from sprouting in the garden next spring.

 

Keep lawn and garden raked clean of leaves and debris.  Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage.  Place some sand and some oil in a large bucket, and then slide your garden tools in and out of the sand.  This will do a good job of cleaning them, as well as applying a light coat of oil to prevent rusting.

 

Clean your gutters and downspouts to remove fallen leaves and other debris.  Plugged gutters can cause damage to your home as well as your garden when the winter rain and snow arrives.

 

Mark your perennials with permanent tags, or create a map showing their locations so you’ll know where and what they are when they die back at the end of the season.  This will help you to avoid digging up something you intended to keep when you plant bulbs and plants this fall and next spring.

 

Give the birds a healthy send-off with food for their long journey south.  Some may even choose to stick around for the winter if they have a good food source. 

 

 

Dusty Miller  a.k.a. Senecio cineraria

 

Not every plant is meant to be a star.  Instead, some plants are used to make their neighbors look, and playing the supporting role is the job for Dusty Miller.  The feature of this plant is its attractive silver-gray foliage rather than its yellow flowers.  In the sunshine, where Dusty Miller grows best, the silvery leaves shimmer and accent any plant that is growing around them.  Because of its light-reflecting qualities, Dusty Miller works its magic where it is planted.

 

Centaurea cineraria or as is known in Italy Fiordaliso scogliere or Dusty Miller is a small plant in the family Asteraceae, and is one of several plants that go by the common name ‘Dusty Miller’.  It originates from the Island of Capraia, in Italy.  The plant grows 6 inches to 24 inches tall.  Plant 8 inches apart.  They prefer full sun, but will tolerate light shade.  They grow best in light, well drained soil, high in organic matter, and tolerates drought.  It is an excellent at frost tolerance.  A very low maintenance plant, prune periodically to maintain a low, bushy shape.  It is best used in borders, beds or for contrast.

 

Lastly, this plant can be grown as a perennial in Zones 9–10, and as an annual on Zones 3-8.  Height is between 8 and 15 inches as annuals, but in Zone 9-10, some varieties grow 2 – 2 ½ feet tall, spreading the blunt-tipped lobes of their 6-8 inch leaves equally wide and sending up 2 ½ – 3 inch flat-topped clusters of the tiny yellow flowers the second year.  It can be sown directly in the garden or rooted from cuttings of the central growth.  Water regularly until the plants are established, then restrict to a good soaking once every week to ten days.  Some bone meal or pellet poultry manure can be applied when plants are 4 – 6 inches high. 

 

 

 

 

Why Fall is for planting

I received this article from  www.homedepotgardenclub.com about the title.  It has some good tips, enjoy!!

 

CHECK IT OUT!!

 

 

Beginning Sprouts Newsletter September 2008

As the summer winds down to fall, it is time to clean up the garden and plan for next spring.  Water trees and shrubs less, allowing them to harden off before winter sets in.  Remove spent annuals.  Keep after the weeds.

 

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs – During the fall months of September, October, and November, after soil temperature drops below 60 degrees F., the bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, dwarf irises, and crocus should be planted.  Select healthy, disease free bulbs.  Add bone meal or bulb fertilizer into the planting hole, as you prepare the soil.

 

Winter pansies, flowering cabbage, and fall mums may be planted now to give a little color to the garden when the summer flowers have faded away.  Scatter the seeds of perennials in a row or in open beds this month so that the young seedlings will be ready to be transplanted into their permanent spot next spring.

 

As the weather cools, perennials which have overgrown their space or become crowded should be dug and divided, or moved to a new area of the garden.  New or replacement perennials can also be planted this month.  Tender bulbs should be dug up and stored in a cool, dark area after first frost.

 

Fruits and veggies – Harvesting fruits and vegetables is the best part of growing them.  As is often the case, you may have produced more of a certain type than your family can consume.  Share the abundance of fruits and veggies with friends and neighbors, and your local food bank or second harvest organization.

 

Fruits and vegetables should be checked regularly for ripeness.  Some root crops, such as carrots, onions, and parsnips can be left in the ground in cold climates and dug up as needed.  Apply enough mulch to keep the ground from freezing, and the crop will be kept fresh until it is needed.

 

After you have finished harvesting your summer vegetables, plant a cover crop of clovers, cow peas, or soybeans for the purpose of plowing under next spring.  These nitrogen producing plants will provide good organic matter and food for your garden crops next year, as well as helping to control weeds over the winter.

 

 

House Plants – Put up some spring flowering bulbs for indoor color during the winter.  Store the pots in a cool, dark place, until new growth emerges from the soil, and then move them to a bright window. 

 

Begin conditioning your poinsettias and Christmas cactus to get them ready for the upcoming holiday season.  Both of these plants are short day plants.  Although the will eventually bloom, if you want the plants in bloom in time for the holidays, they must be kept at about 65 to 70 degrees, and subjected to at least six weeks of 14 hours of total darkness per day (mid to late September).  This may be accomplished by placing the potted plant in a closet or unlighted room, or by covering the plant with black cloth, black plastic over a frame or a cardboard box.  The plant must then be returned to the light each day and given a minimum of 4 hours of direct sun, or 10 hours of bright light.  The application of a 10-10-10 fertilizer this month and again next should help encourage the development of flower buds, then feed your plant every two weeks with a high nitrogen fertilizer once color has begun to show.

 

Christmas cactus needs the same general care, with the exception that they require cooler temperatures of about 50 to 60 degrees.

 

Odds and ends – Mark your perennials with permanent tags, or create a map showing their locations so you’ll know where and what they are when they die back at the end of the season.  This will help you to avoid digging up something you intended to keep when you plant bulbs and plants this fall and next spring.

 

One last effort at weeding will help to improve the appearance of your garden throughout the winter. 

 

Provide the birds with some food for their journey south.  Some might stick around if they have a dependable food station.

 

 

 

 

Scarlet Runner Bean, a.k.a. Phaseolus coccineus

With scarlet runner bean, you can have your ornamental vine and eat it, too.  This vine produces colorful orange-red flowers that are one inch wide followed by edible green snap beans, and the more beans you pick, the more flowers the vine will produce.  The large climbing plant reaches 12-15 feet.  Its leaves are dark green, with underside of veins tinged with purple.  The green pods are edible but in some varieties tend to become fibrous early, and only the seeds within are eaten.  The seeds can be used fresh or as dried beans.

 

Like other beans, Scarlet Runner Bean vines grow best in warm, well-drained soil.  Wait until after the last spring frost before planting.  Sow the seeds in pairs, spacing each pair 6-8 inches; the vines may be trained to grow on a fence, trellis, or a tepee of bamboo poles for a summer playhouse for small children.

 

In cold climates, you may want to start seed indoors in spring to give young plants a head start; usually within three weeks before sowing.  When transplanting, disturb the roots as little as possible. 

 

Soils that are high in nitrogen can result in very leafy vines and few flowers.  Allow some of the pods to mature to a mahogany color, then dry, shell, and save the seeds for planting next year.  Plant is vulnerable to rabbits, deer and woodchucks.   

 

Runner beans contain traces of a poisonous lactic Phytohaemagglutinin and must be thoroughly cooked before consumption.

 

 

 

 

Beginning Sprouts August 2008 Newsletter

August has a short list of gardening tasks to perform in the garden. The hot temperatures of mid summer make it tough to spend time in the garden, so take advantage of any cooler days to tend to grooming and weeding. Your main concern is supplying an ample amount of water for your plants. Weed control is important also, because with warmer weather and increased watering, weed seeds will germinate and grow faster, and mature to produce more seeds. Keep weeds cultivated out of all parts of the garden.

Watering can be the biggest task this month, particularly, if the weather is hot. Vegetable gardens, most flowering plants, and the lawn all need about one inch of water every week to keep them green and looking nice. Be sure to water thoroughly and deeply each time you water. When possible, do your watering in the morning or early afternoon so the soil has a chance to warm up before the cooler evening hours set in. Deep watering will induce the plant’s roots to grow deeper, where they are less likely to dry out, as well as the added benefit of anchoring the plant into the ground better. Light, surface watering actually wastes water, because the water never reaches the root zone of the plant, and the moisture rapidly evaporates from the top inch of soil. They best way to tell if your plants are receiving enough water is to take a trowel or shovel and dig down a few inches. The soil should be moist at least 3 to 4 inches deep to insure that the water is reaching the root zone of the plants. If you planted drought resistant plants in your garden, you won’t have to water as often, but the principal of deep watering still applies.

Be sure to check the hanging baskets and container grown plants every day during hot weather and about every second day on moderate summer days. Don’t check the surface – push your finger an inch or two into the soil to be sure there is adequate moisture below throughout the root area. Water them thoroughly each time you water, but be careful not to overwater them.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs – take a few minutes to pick off the old dead flowers on your annuals, as well as the spent flowers on perennial plants. By removing the spent flowers, the plants will not go into the seed producing stage and should continue to flower longer into the season.

Fall blooming Crocus should be planted this month, to give you an extra week or two of flowers after the main garden plants have finished for the year. Spring flowering perennials can be divided and transplanted this month or next. Be sure to do this during the coolest part of the day and water the plants thoroughly after transplanting.

Prune your hybrid roses in late August to promote the most fall blossoms. Remove about a third of the vigorous growth. Any stems that cross each other should be removed, as well as those that are in the center of the plant. Weak, spindly canes and any damaged by black spot fungus should be removed. Except in colder regions, roses should be fertilized through the end of September. Maintain a spraying schedule to control insects and disease.

Fruits and veggies – Now is the time to start your fall and winter vegetables. Plant starters or seeds of growing onions, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, radishes, and winter cauliflower directly into the garden early this month.

Enjoy the harvest of your homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs.

Odds and ends – Keep the weeds pulled, before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. Weeds in the garden are harmful because they rob your plants of water and nutrients, harbor insects and diseases, and, on occasion grow tall enough to shade your flowers and plants.

Change the water in your bird bath regularly, and keep it filled. Standing water is less healthy for the birds, and may become a breeding ground for mosquito larvae.

Continue to watch for insect, slug and snail, or disease damage throughout the garden, and take the necessary steps to control the problem.

Caladium

They are also known by the names elephant ear, heart of Jesus, and Angel Wings. Caladiums are tropical plants that are grown for their colorful foliage. Although tropical, they grow fast enough to be enjoyed during the summer in cooler climates and all year long as houseplants. Shade and humidity lovers, Caladiums dazzle in shade gardens with their large, pointed arrow-shaped leaves splashed with shades of green, white, cream, pink and red.

They are wonderful bright spots in a shade garden. Grouped together, they can look like they are in bloom. Caladiums grow equally well in containers and pair nicely with ferns and other soft textured plants like astibes, with spiky leaved plants such as ornamental grasses and shade tolerant iris and with coordinating colored blooms of fuchsia and Impatiens.

Caladiums cannot survive conditions much below room temperature, and thrive in warm, humid conditions. Most gardeners buy plants at garden centers, but one can buy the dormant tubers and start them in a warm indoor room. Plant the tubers, with the bumpy sides up, two inches deep in sterile soilless planting mix. Keep the containers at a warm room temperature and keep the planting mix constantly moist.

Plant caladiums outdoors, spacing them 8 – 12 inches apart, when night temperatures warm to 60 degree F. In summer, water as needed to keep the soil moist, and fertilize the plants every 2 – 3 weeks with a balanced soluble fertilizer, applied according to package directions. If the leaves develop holes and slimy trails, suspect slugs or snails. Control these irritants by setting out saucers of beer to lure and drown the pests. If the foliage is pale and stippled, sap-sucking spider mites may be feeding on leaf undersides. Rinse them off with water from a hose or apply insecticidal soap per label.

Lift dry tubers before frost hits the plants. Remove leaves and air-dry the tubers for a few days. Store them through winter in a box or paper bag filled with dry peat moss kept at a temperature above 70 degree F. Check monthly, and if the tubers are beginning to shrivel, mist them with tepid water.

In Zones 9 and warmer, where summers are long and warm enough for caladiums to develop large tubers, you can divide clumps in early spring and replant. In colder zones, caladiums lose vigor each year, despite care, making them unsuitable to propagate.

Beginning Sprouts Newsletter July 2008

July is a time when you can sit back for a moment and enjoy the fruits of your labor in the garden. While there are still other tasks to perform in the garden, your primary concern will be assuring an ample supply of water for your plants. The amount of water that your garden will need is going to depend on the weather conditions in your area. The primary rule of summer watering is to water thoroughly and deeply each time and to allow the soil dry out between waterings. Deep watering will allow the plant’s roots to grow deeper, where they are less likely to dry out, as well as the added benefit of anchoring the plant into the ground better. Light, surface watering actually wastes water, because the water never actually reaches the root zone of the plant, and the moisture rapidly evaporates from the top inch of soil.

The best way to tell if your plants are receiving enough water is to take a trowel or shovel and dig a few inches. The soil should be moist at least three or four inches deep to insure that the water is reaching the root zone of the plants. If you planted drought resistant plants in your garden, you won’t have to water as often, but the principal of deep watering still applies. As the weather dries out, your container plants may need daily watering. Push your finger into the soil in your container plantings once a day (more often on hot, dry days) to feel for moisture and be certain that plants are getting enough water. Apply water until it run out the drainage holes.

Try to do watering during the morning hours so that the leaves dry off before the sun hits them. Evening watering is sometimes acceptable if the temperatures are warm enough to insure that foliage dries before the temperature drops at night. Wet foliage makes plants more susceptible to fungus and disease.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs- continue to dead head your annuals to encourage continued blooming. If your annuals have died off, pull them out and add them to the compost pile. Replant that spot with hardy annuals or perennials. Get a second bloom from faded annuals by cutting them back by one half their heights, and then fertilize them with a liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer. Roses will need to be fertilized each month through the summer. Fertilize container gardens regularly with a liquid all purpose plant food. Chrysanthemums should be lightly fertilized every two weeks. Discontinue pinching your mums in mid month so they will be able to develop flower buds for the fall.

Iris may be divided and replanted when they have finished blooming; discard all shriveled and diseased parts. Sweet peas My tend to fizzle out with the hot summer weather, but with heavy mulching to keep the roots cool and moist you can prolong the flowering season by a few more weeks. A little mid-day shade will also help to maintain the quality of the flowers and prolong the blooming season.

Geranium cuttings may be made in late July to start plants for indoor bloom during the winter months, and for setting into the garden next spring. You may need to provide supplemental lighting with fluorescent grow lights for good winter blooms indoors.

Fruits and veggies – Begin enjoying the harvest of your homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs. Fertilize June bearing strawberries after the harvest, and ever-bearing varieties half way through the season. Be sure to protect your fruit from the birds with netting.

Empty areas of the garden, where the crops have finished, could be replanted with either a fall vegetable crop, or a cover crop to help control weeds. Cover crops can be tilled into the soil later, to add humus and nitrates to the soil.

House Plants – can be moved outside to a shady, protected spot. Watch for insect or disease damage and take necessary steps to control the problem. Warmer and drier weather means it will be necessary to water and mist your house plants more often. Feed your house plants with ½ the recommended strength of a good soluble house plant fertilizer while they are growing.

Odds and ends – be alert to slug and snail damage. These creatures will be hiding during the heat of the day, but will come out of hiding in the cool morning and evening hours or after a rain. Destroy all slugs and their eggs. Keep the weeds pulled, before then have a chance to flower and go to seed again. Change the water in your bird bath regularly, and keel it filled. Standing water may become a breeding ground for mosquito larvae.

Geranium

Geranium is a genus of 422 species of flowering annual, biennial, and perennial plants that are commonly known as the ‘cranesbills’. The name ‘cranesbill’ derives from the appearance of the seed-heads, which have the same shape as the bill of a crane. The genus name is derived from the Greek word geranos, meaning ‘crane.’ It is found throughout the temperate regions of the world and the mountains of the tropics, but mostly in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region. These flowers will grow in any soil as long as it is not waterlogged.

Confusingly, “geranium” is also the common name of members of the genus Pelargonium, which were formerly classified in the cranesbill genus. One can make the distinction between the two by looking at the flowers: Geranium has symmetrical flowers, while Pelargonium has irregular petals.

Their foliage is often toothed and remains attractive. The flowers float on top of the plant, in shades of white, pink, magenta, purples and blues. Most species are low growing, from 3” to about 2’ tall.

Geraniums require little care, once established. They prefer full sun and a well-drained, moderately rich soil. They can handle partial shade, but become more prone to mildew if kept damp. They are not particular about soil pH, but a neutral to slightly acid soil is ideal (5.8 – 7.0).

The plants can get a bit scraggly after blooming and deadheading is difficult with so many wispy stems. Shearing the plants back to basal growth will improve its look and encourage reblooming. The plants fill back in within weeks.

Most species of Geranium live longer if divided every 3-5 years. You can divide more frequently, so keep them from spreading. Once you see the center dying out, it is definitely time to divide.

Slugs may attack young plants. Mildew and rust can infest foliage, especially in partial shade and/or humid climates. Shearing back and disposing of the infected leaves will help.

Lastly, this is one annual that will withstand the cold. It is among the hardiest of annuals and will compete with mums for the last flower of the year.

Beginning Sprouts Newsletter June 2008

Gardening in June.

Hopefully, by now, everyone is enjoying the sunny weather making the most of this gardening season.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs – Pinch back any annuals, Geraniums, Cosmos, or any other plants that might be getting a little leggy. Pinch Chrysanthemum’s to encourage them to be bushier and have more blossoms. Check roses for mildew, aphid, black spot or other insect or disease problems and if they appear take steps to control them. Roses need to be fertilized each month through the summer. Make sure your climbing roses are securely tied into position; prune them after blooming. Deadhead your annuals to encourage more flowers. Remove dead foliage from spring flowering bulbs, but only after it has died back naturally. Stake tall flowers to keep them from blowing over in the wind. Begonias can now be planted outdoors. Once the foliage of Daffodils has died back, you may divide and move the bulbs to a new spot. Daffodil clusters should be divided up every three years to ensure good blooming.

Fruits and veggies – Start any of the warm weather vegetables (corn, beans, egg plant, tomatoes, squash, pumpkins, etc.) as soon as possible. Water tomato plants every day and start feeding them weekly once fruits set. Protect your fruit from the birds with netting. Thin your vegetable seedlings to provide ample room for growth.

House Plants – They can be moved outside to a shady, protected spot. Warmer and drier weather means it will be necessary to water and mist your house plants more often. Feed your house plants with ½ the recommended strength of a good soluble houseplant fertilizer.

Odds and ends – At exactly, 12:00 PM, on June 15, set your sundial for 12:00 to get the most accurate time reading throughout the summer. Keep the weeds pulled, before they have a chance to flower and go to seed again. Change the water in your bird bath regularly; standing water may become a breeding ground for mosquito larvae.

Clematis  – are of the Ranunculaceae botanical family. The majority of clematis is climbers. There are several hundred species of clematis world wide. Clematis enables the gardener to have masses of bloom late winter to late fall. To accomplish this, varieties with different bloom times can be grown together or planted in areas of the garden.

Most clematis varieties produce single flowers. These range in size from 1” to 10”. Some varieties produce double flowers. Most double flowering varieties will bloom double on the previous season’s growth, early in spring. They will than bloom single on the current season’s growth in late summer or early fall. If pruned improperly, these varieties will produce single blooms only.

The blooms of the clematis often change color, particularly, when grown in full sun. The pastel colors will hold their color best if grown in some shade. After the flowers are finished, the seed heads stay on the plant and can make a welcome addition to most flower arrangements.

Many of the clematis species are scented although none are strongly perfumed. Clematis has some specific climate related requirements. Clematis grow and bloom much better if they have a dormant period of six weeks. Night temperatures of about 45 degrees F or colder for a week or more puts them into dormancy.

The clematis you plant today needs to be happy with the effort you put into its planting site for the next several decades. Clematis need a cool, moist, deep root run, plenty of water and regular, balanced feeding. A little preparation will ensure the proper environment. Dig a hole eighteen inches deep by eighteen inches wide. Cover the bottom with good rich compost. Add a handful of bone meal and mix into soil. Add enough topsoil to cover the compost; now you are ready to plant. Place your well watered clematis in the hole so that about six inches of stem is below the soil line. The stem of your clematis needs to be ripe before you bury it. If you are concerned about this, leave the final filling of the hole until later in the season. The stem of the newly planted clematis needs to be securely attached to a support so that damage to the stem does not occur.

Clematis can be planted when the ground is workable. They react to the seasons like bulbs. In the summer and fall, here is vigorous root growth storing energy for top growth and flowers the following spring. Come spring, clematis will produce two or three feet of top growth before you notice any root activity. If you choose to plant in spring or summer, it is useful to periodically pinch out the growing tips. If you choose to plant in the fall, prune the following spring. Although this will inhibit flowering for the first year, it will help promote root development and produce a bushier plant. If planting is done in the heat of the summer, it is essential that sufficient water is provided to keep roots moist and cool.

The first February or March after planting, all clematis should be cut back. At this time, you should be able to see leaf buds developing as your plant breaks dormancy. You should leave two sets of buds on each stem between where you make your cut and soil level.

In subsequent years, the following recommendations should be used.

There are three pruning categories.

Group (A) are varieties that flower only on growth produced the previous year. Pruning should consist of cutting out weak or dead stems as soon as they are finished blooming in May or June. Pruning later than June or very severe pruning will result in fewer blooms the following spring. The very popular montana varieties fall into this group and even though they will survive in our colder climates, if the tops are nipped off by extreme frosts, blooms that should have occurred in early spring might occur in the fall, if at all.

Group (B) Group B is broken down into two sub groups:

Group B (1) are the varieties that flower on wood that has been hardened by the previous season’s growth. Normal blooming patterns for this group consist of a heavy flush of flowers in May – June on the previous season’s growth followed by a second smaller flush of blooms in September on the current season’s growth.

Group B (2) are the varieties that bloom simultaneously on last year’s growth and the current season’s growth. Group B (2) varieties normally bloom from June to September continuously. For pruning purposes these varieties can be treated either as group B (1) or group C and for that reason work extremely well in combination plantings with group B (1) or group C varieties. If planted alone a group C pruning regime every second year is recommended.

For both group B (1) and B (2), in late February or March a light pruning with some variation in the length of the stems will help produce a well balanced group B plant. Any weak or dead wood should be removed at this time and a careful spacing of the remaining stems is all that is required. The spacing of the stems will allow room for next spring’s mass of blooms to open pleasingly. A severe pruning will reduce the number of blooms at the plant’s next flowering, but will not hurt the plant; in many cases it will help produce a better balanced plant. If your group B clematis has been neglected for many years, it can be rejuvenated by severely cutting back most of the old growth. It is always amazing how quickly new growth appears. Separate and direct the new shoots or they will soon grow skyward in a tangled mess.

Group (C) These varieties bloom only on the current year’s growth. Blooms commence in early summer and continue through to fall. Plants should be cut back in late February or March to two strong sets of buds on each stem as close to ground level as possible. This will provide a plant with blooms that start near ground level and continue to the top of the plant. The majority of the group C clematis start their new growth very close to where last season’s growth ended; so if left unpruned they will very quickly grow out of control. If you want to grow a group C clematis through a tree or have it bloom in an area above its normal blooming height, this characteristic can be used to your advantage. You can prune an established plant at almost any height or not prune at all to accomplish your objective. Keep in mind that group C clematis bloom on the current season’s growth; so that if treated in an untraditional way the blooms will be at the top of the plant and a bare stem will gradually appear over a few years. This provides an opportunity to plant a lower growing group B variety to hide the bare stem and to extend the blooming season.

Earwigs and slugs are the most common pest problems clematis have. With slugs, it’s a matter of control not elimination. Slugs prefer to attack young shoot. Earwigs usually attack in midsummer and can turn the bloom of a late flowering clematis into a lace work over night. A fungus that might affect your clematis is mildew. It is not a problem if there is good air circulation. Your local garden nursery can help with an appropriate recommendation for control.

*www.homeofclematis.net

Beginning Sprouts Newsletter May 2008

This month the weather can either turn your garden into an Eden, or a wasteland. Keep aware of weather forecasts and trends.

Gardening guides and hardiness zones are based on past years averages, and can’t predict another frost or a spring drought. If cold weather is still around, protect your tender plants with mulch, newspaper, light cloth or some type of overnight protection over the plants. On the other end, if the weather is sunny and dry, don’t neglect your watering. Most flowers and shrubs need about an inch of water each week to perform well, and newly planted seedlings will perish if their roots are allowed to dry out.

This is a time of gardening inspirations and dreams. Look around to get creative ideas to enhance your garden and utilize some of those ideas. Here are some May gardening projects that you can use to help keep your garden looking its best the rest of this season.

Perennials, annuals, and bulbs
Dahlias, Gladiolas, Begonias, Lilies and other summer flowering bulbs can be planted this month. Gladiolas bulbs may be planted at 2 week increments until the first of July to provide cut flowers until the first frost.

Delphiniums, Phlox, Daylilies, Carnations, Primroses, Coral Bells and other summer flowering perennials may all be set into the garden any time in May. Break off wilting Tulip or Daffodil heads but continue to feed and care for the plants until the foliage has died back naturally. Old plantings of Daffodils may be divided and moved when they have finished blooming, but treat them as growing plants and use care to protect foliage and roots. Water them thoroughly after transplanting. It is best not to dig or move other spring flowering bulbs until their foliage has ripened and died back.

Pansies, Snapdragons, Petunias, Geraniums, and Impatiens should be ready to plant by mid month. Toward the end of the month, it should be warm enough to plant out the more tender annuals like Salvia, Zinnias, and Marigolds. Lightly sidedress perennials with an all purpose 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 fertilizer. Avoid spilling the fertilizer on the plant, and use care not to damage the shallow roots when you cultivate it into the soil.

Setting the stakes next to your taller flowers early in the season, will help to support the plant against winds as well as making it easier to ‘train’. Promptly remove spent flowers from any plant unless your intent is to harvest the seeds. It consumes the plants energy to produce the seeds, and in many species of plants (especially annuals), removing the dead flowers will promote further blooms.

Fruits and veggies
Carrots, lettuce, potatoes, corn, beans, peas and most popular vegetables (with the exception of the warmer weather crops) can be seeded into the vegetable garden at any time now.

Wait until mid May before planting the warmer weather crops like tomatoes, squash, cucumber, pumpkins and peppers. With a little luck, you may begin to see the first fruit on your strawberries by late this month. The birds will enjoy them very much if you don’t provide some protective netting over them. Newly planted strawberries should have blossoms picked off until they become well established. Gourds may be planted later on this month, if your growing season is long enough.

Odds and Ends

Slugs and snails are out in full force right now. Take steps to control them before they have a chance to reproduce and devastate your garden.

The first flowers you’ll see will be your weeds. Work to eliminate the weeds (roots and all) before they have a chance to go to seed, or you will be fighting them for years to come.

Lastly, if the weather refuses to cooperate with your gardening plans, and your seeds have refused to germinate due to cold and wet conditions, you may want to consider replanting a reserve crop (just in case).

Phlox

Phlox (pronounced “flocks” and meaning ‘flame’ in Latin) is a genus of 67 species of annual or perennial flowering plants. Some species flower in early spring while others flower in summer into fall. Most species are native to North America but a few species are also from northeastern Asia.

Phlox range in color from pale blue to bright red to white. Some species grow to 3 feet tall, with thick, glossy leaves, while others can spread across the ground with needle-like leaves. It can be a midsummer sun-lover or bloom in shady woods in April. All forms have five petals, often with a colored eye, on a tubular base.

Phlox is best grown in well-drained soil, exposed to partial shade to partial sun. The foliage of Phlox is sometimes eaten by the larvae of some moths. The flowers, when fertilized, typically produce one large seed.

The Garden phlox (P. paniculata), native to the eastern half of the U.S., likes rich, well-drained soil and full to partial sunlight. Reaching as high as 5 feet, summer phlox puts on a colorful show for several weeks from mid- to late summer. Its sweet perfume lures a variety of butterflies, such as swallowtails and Painted Ladies. Deadhead to prevent self-seeding. Divide the clump every few years and reset the young shoots from the clump’s edge into fresh soil. Garden phlox is easy to propagate from cuttings. Annual phlox (P.drummondii) will bloom from midsummer well into fall, if deadheaded. Give it full sun and fresh soil.

Butterflies, bumblebees and an occasional hummingbird may find phlox irresistible; it isn’t restricted to daytime pollinators. Hawk moths may hover next to its blossoms from late afternoon to dusk. Also, night moths may be drawn to the sweet scent of the flowers. Although many phlox varieties are attractive to moths, those with pale-colored or white blossoms are true stars after dark. Some choices are Phlox maculate ‘Miss Lingard’ and ‘Omega’, P .paniculata ‘David’, ‘Delta Show’, and ‘World Peace’.

Beginning Sprouts Newsletter April 2008

Has spring arrived? I sure hope so; I can’t wait to get into my yard. Where do I start cleaning up and give new growth a helping hand? In the meantime, I love listening to the birds and seeing new sprouts popping out of the earth.

Here are some April projects to get your garden off to a good start. I always tell myself not to overdo; tasks will get done all in good time. April is the month for planting summer flowering bulbs like dahlias, gladiolas and lilies. Mix bulb fertilizer, processed manure and peat moss into the planting soil.

 Perennials, annuals, and bulbs

Plant annual seeds of asters, marigolds and zinnias in the garden. When all frost danger has passed, you can move your stored geraniums outdoors. Trim them back, feed and re-pot if necessary. Water them well.

When they have finished blooming, be sure to deadhead your spring flowering bulbs. Do not cut off the green foliage yet; these green leaves will continue to grow for a few weeks, and provide the bulb with food for flowering next year. Divide perennials like Daylilies, iris, chrysanthemums, and Phlox.

Hybrid Tea Roses should be fertilized prior to buds beginning to bloom. Using a systemic fertilizer will help prevent insect infestation later in the summer, as it feeds your rose. Plant new rosebushes before growth starts and buds swell.

Fruits and veggies  

Ccontrol weeds and aerate the soil by cultivating between the rows of plants. Plant perennial vegetables like asparagus, rhubarb, and horseradish. You can plant peas, carrots, beets, spinach, cauliflower, cabbage, etc. Root crops like potatoes, radishes, parsnips and onion can be planted at anytime. Later this month, one can plant beans and corn. Wait until next month to plant tomatoes, squash, cucumbers and peppers. As your direct-seeded crops sprout, be sure to keep them thinned out to avoid crowding.

House Plants  

Rotate your houseplants so that each side receives its share of light, for even growth and balance shape. As the sun’s ray strengthens, some plants, such as African Violets, may need to be moved away from a south-facing window to avoid leaf scorch.

Spring cleaning your plants will keep them beautiful and help to avoid diseases. Remove any spent flowers, dead leaves or branches, or any yellowing leaves. Rinse the dust from the leaves with a spray bottle allowing your plant to breathe. Pinching back the tips of foliage plants will stimulate new growth and make your plant fuller and bushier.

Odds and ends

Keep transplanted flowers well watered during dry spells. Be sure to check the plants in containers and those under the eaves of the house and under tall evergreens to see that they are getting enough water.

Sweet Pea a.k.a. Lahyrus odoratus is a flowering plant in the genus Lathyrus in the family Fabaceae (legumes), native to the eastern Mediterranean region from Sicily east to Crete.

The sweet-smelling flowers come in a wide range of colors and are the main feature of this climbing plant. The vine grows 6 to 9 feet tall, with dwarf types reaching 8 – 20 inches. The stems appear folded and the flowers resemble fringed butterflies. Not all Sweet pea varieties are fragrant. They have a long season of bloom. Sweet peas are also suitable for baskets, tubs and spillover plantings, and make excellent cut flowers. The seeds of the sweet pea are poisonous as they contain a neurotoxin, and should not be eaten. The illness caused by the indigestion of sweet peas is known as odoratism, or sweet pea lathyrism.

Sweet peas come in over 250 varieties. Sweet peas are usually direct seeded. To assist germination, seeds should be nicked or soaked in water for several hours, to soften the seed coating. Seed can be started outdoors, as soon as the ground has warmed to about 50 degrees F. and is not too wet. At about 3-6”, pinch the seedlings to encourage strong side shoots. Seed can be started earlier indoors, in pots. Pinch off all flowers and buds when transplanting seedlings, to encourage root development.

Sweet pea vines have tendrils and will attach themselves to most any type of support with meshing or lines. Regular deadheading or cutting for display, will keep them blooming longer. They require regular watering, especially as the temperature increases. They prefer a somewhat rich soil and can be fed monthly with a fertilizer high in potassium, as used for tomatoes. Adding a bit of blood meal to the soil is thought to help keep the stems long and suitable for cutting. Annual varieties prefer full sun, regular watering and soil with plenty of humus. Perennial sweet peas survive in average soils with moderate watering. There are few pests or problems associated with sweet peas. They are usually done in by the heat.